Dublin's 10 Best Neighbourhoods

The finest spots in the city, to live in and visit, deconstructed by those who know them best - the locals.

What makes a great neighbourhood? At its most basic, your hood is simply where you live. Most of us are happy to leave the whole thing behind once we trade up. Because what you look for changes all the time. As a kid, you're happy as long as there are other kids around. Grow up a little and you want to be close to town - and decent pubs. A few more years go by and it's all about good shops - food, not fashion. Then you're thinking about schools for your own kids, fresh air and privacy. None of these things are easy to find in a city that is still growing up. But Dublin has somewhere for everyone: you just have to know where to look. To help you, we asked a team of local experts to lay bare the secrets of Dublin's ten best neighbourhoods. If you're looking for somewhere to live - or just a good day out - you're in the right place.

RINGSEND
By Brendan O'Connor

Atmosphere The Ringer is one of the few areas adjacent to the city centre that has remained an old fashioned Dublin village. The atmosphere is still very much "Rare Oul Times," with a strong sense of community, healthy doses of both nationalism and non nationalism, and if you buy in the right spot, lovely old squares with kiddies frolicking in the middle.
Who lives there? Yuppie penetration of the area remains minimal so the few of us that live here are viewed more as eccentrics than land-grabbing outsiders who are stopping local youngsters from buying in their own neighbourhood. While Melanie Morris recently sold her des res in the area, sex bomb Colin Farrell retains his Dublin base in the Irishtown end of Ringsend and you will often see Rats from Paths to Freedom enjoying a quiet pint in The Oarsman.
History Still a maritime flavour to the village formerly known as Raytown. This area was once home to one of the largest working class Protestant communities in Ireland. This - and a vague allegiance to the British army - lends the area its fairly open, unparochial atmosphere.
Amenities Ringsend itself is yet to be developed to any great extent but Clyne's butchers is the finest in Dublin and The Oarsman is a lively friendly spot for a few pints. Sandymount Village is within spitting distance with it's unique village green, a local deli (Matisse) and a class local hardware store of the kind you rarely see anymore. Walk for five minutes in the other direction and you get to Ocean, Dublin's premier drinking spot of a summer's day. The development of the Charlotte Quay area as the new Temple Bar promises plenty of bar/restaurant/entertainment action.
Quality of life While you're only five minutes from the city centre on the bus or a brisk 20 minute walk, just a few minutes walk in the other direction and you find yourself on Sandymount Strand, one of the most impressive beachscapes in Ireland. Sandymount Village Green is perfect for your summer lunchtime sandwich. A great spot for a couple starting out. Wanting something more rural but still not able to drag yourself from living near the buzz of the city centre? The Ringer provides the best of both worlds and is an area on the up. Underneath the cobblestones, the beach.
Property Smart money goes on affordable artisan cottages. There are less and less bargains going around this area but you might still pick up something nice for less that 400K if you're lucky. The central location means these should prove a sound investment, even in the event of a property dip.
Kids? A huge park, the beach and the aforementioned cul de sac squares and side roads make this a great spot for kids. The Docklands Development Authority are also trying to buy their way into the hearts of the area's residents by doing plenty of kiddie stuff too.

HOWTH
By Kathleen Watkins

Atmosphere Howth is unique: just eight miles from The Spire, up away from the village you can be surrounded by sea, sky and wild places, with glorious walks and climbs and superb views to take you round from The Mountains of Mourne through the entire West of Dublin and down to Wicklow Head.
Who lives there? John Banville, John McColgan and Moya Doherty, Larry Mullen, old-time Howth birth-righters and, increasingly, townies attracted by the bracing sea air, mountain views and easy accessibility by Dart. The village atmosphere is a draw for young couples who want their children to grow up with a more relaxed and open pace of life. And of course the seaside location also attracts a shifting population of day-trippers.
History On the way back from an audience with Queen Elizabeth, Grace O'Malley dropped by Howth castle, residence of Lord Howth, for a bite to eat, but was rudely refused. In revenge she kidnapped Howth's son and took him back to Clew Bay. The ransom she demanded was that the gates of Howth Castle never be locked and each night a place be set for the head of the O'Malley clan. It's a tribute to her force of character, the superstitious nature of Howth inhabitants and their good business sense that the tradition continues to this day.
Amenities Right under Howth Station is The Bloody Stream pub for fine fish-and-chips beside a real roaring fire. Close by is the West Pier - a real working pier used by the fishing fleet, with fish shops right the way down, where we find just-unloaded fish on most days, including Sunday. Our favourite is Nicky's Plaice, very small but so alive. Right down the end of the pier is the Aqua Restaurant, housed in the old yacht club building: very good food indeed in a stunning location and a lovely atmosphere - a great favourite with locals. At the far end of the front is the famous King Sitric Restaurant - very expensive but extremely good and maintaining a mighty reputation since we came to live in Howth, now over 30 years ago. In Dublin city a scallop starter could consist of two-and-a-half scallops scattered around the plate. In the Sitric, helpings are rather more generous, to say the least. They also have rooms and I often see people in the restaurant windows breakfasting when I'm on my way down the Pier for my morning walk. Regular walks down the East Pier are a must. The public loos at the top of the pier are usually the cleanest in Ireland, but recently standards seem to be slipping. On a recent visit, I felt the urge to give the floor a good scrubbing with carbolic soap. The road rises from there to the centre of the village, dominated by the Catholic Church. A few years ago we got the addition of twin shops just beside the church; one is a really good and busy delicatessen, and the other does fruit and some special food items, with veg, plants and flowers spilling out on the street. Further up beyond the church there is a beautiful little antiques shop. For the big shop, we all tend to go to Superquinn at Sutton Cross. They open at 8.30 am which suits me fine as I'm an early riser. The staff in Superquinn will do anything for you - they are so consistently nice and helpful.
Quality of life Superb: sea and sky in abundance. That great meeting-place, the Howth Yacht Club, is really the focal-point of the seafront and the superb new marina means boats stay in the water all year round.
Property It's all about the view. A detached, four-bedroom house with sea views on desireable Balkill Road will go for about €690,000. A new two-bedroom duplex apartment with sea air rather than view averages about €560,000, while a terraced three-bedroom house in town is a mere €300,000.
Kids? Couldn't be better. Good school, fresh air, sea bathing and all the intimacy of a village; means they don't get away with a thing.

STONEYBATTER
By Charles O'Toole

Atmosphere The northside's oldest inner city village is a stone's throw from O'Connell Street and Dublin's newest monument, the Spire. In fact, the old and the new are dotted everywhere, from the revamped chimney tower atop Jameson's distillery to the cobbled streets throughout, from the always thriving fruit markets of old and the monthly Smithfield horse fair to the latest in urban development and Luas line. But the main attraction is its people; a mix of rooted Dublin working class aside the young and vibrant city dweller. The atmosphere is evident everywhere from pubs to shops, and along the meandering and narrow streets.
Who lives there? Lawyers who work near the Four Courts, artists drawn to the rich character and bohemian atmosphere, and long-established local families. Arrivistes include singer/architect Camille O'Suillivan, Jerome and Amanda O'Driscoll of the Green on Red gallery, architect Philip Crowe and musician Liz Mclaren.
History Laid out in the 17th century as a marketplace to the ever-growing Dublin, Stoneybatter is named from the Irish for "road of stones" or Bothar-na-gloch, an apt name for this intimate village.
Quality of life A short walk takes you on an adventure - from Smithfield square, torchlit at night by giant metal braziers, to the law library at Blackhall Place, to the stunning new suspended Calatrava bridge across the Liffey, to the National Museum at Collins Barracks, where Eileen Gray's pioneering contemporary furniture exhibition is now on display. On the way, one can visit the Kish fish factory and shop on Bow Street, selling fresh catch of the day, Little Italy, a wholesale Italian food outlet with accompanying shop and the Brown Bag cafe at the bottom of the cobbled Smithfield market square. The old Jameson distillery is now a popular museum. Traditional music is on tap along with the drink at Hughes and the Cobblestone, while other favorites include Ryan's, Walsh's, and the Glimmerman, named for the bygone oil lamplighters. The urban bohemian can drink at the New York-style Dice Bar and Voodoo Lounge, serving a range of Dublin Brewing Company selections, brewed at the top of the square.
Property In Dublin's rejuvenation plans, Smithfield is earmarked for development. Aside the square, mixed-use apartments, offices and retail shops are being built by Paddy Kelly. The Marmion flats complex has been colourfully remodeled. Plans for a new fish market have been announced for a large area immediately opposite the old fruit market. It all fits in with the older style terraced redbrick off Manor Street, Stoneybatter's main throughway.

DOCKLANDS
By Laura Frasier

Atmosphere Smart and modern. Think award-winning architecture in a newly-created environment, great views and a real sense that here at last is the New Dublin.
Who lives there? The Docklands is Dublin's first truly international community of young to middle aged professionals. In other words, thousands of people who look like people in Ally McBeal. Down the road, expect to meet hundreds of real-life Dubliners, all writing books about growing up on Sheriff Street.
History Two hundred years ago Dublin was one of the most important ports of the British Empire. It was also the departure point for the voyages to the States during famine times. When the port moved to deeper waters - before sinking altogether - large tracts of the original dock became derelict. In the 1970s, containerisation and roll-on/roll-off ferries removed the need for storage facilities on the dockside. Lots of space, lots of movies: Michael Collins, Far and Away and In the name of the Father were all filmed around here.
Amenities On a cold, wet, windy Sunday, it can all feel a little too new for its own good, but don't dismiss the Docklands yet. It's changing quickly, and already there is a wide range of cafés, bars and restaurants. Check out the Harbourmaster, Aya, D-One, Sinergie and Milano. Meet hot young things in the Laundry and Dry Cleaning Shop, or at Cabot & Co wine merchants. Get married, have kids, send them to Giraffe, the local creche. Or enrol at the National College of Ireland, which has just opened. Next year things will really change here, when an exclusive shopping and dining destination called custom house quay dublin 1 opens for business. This 19th century warehouse - formerly known as Stack A - is being transformed into a sophisticated shopping and dining destination with an event and exhibition space. With over 150,000 square feet of boutiques, stores and restaurants, custom house quay will epitomise the reversal of this area's fortunes.
Quality of life The development of the campshires (river edges) has given the docks a new lease of life - hence those fancy yachts. But who wants to live on a boat? If you have money, you're not afraid to spend it and you want to live in an exciting part of town, this is an area that is well worth looking at. You'll get waterfront living at its best: a perfect place to exercise, a wealth of local amenities and one of the most convenient addresses in the city.
Property The IFSC is a template for modern city living. Think one to three-bedroom apartments and penthouses - some include rooftop terraces and gardens with exceptional views of the city overlooking the river. Expect to pay over €1,000,000 for the best of them. And hurry: the first phase of the Spencer Dock development - over 500 apartments - sold out over a weekend last November.
Kids? Not great yet; apart from a fully serviced créche, facilities are limited. But watch this space ...

DALKEY
By Tara Murphy

Atmosphere Very posh... of course. Unlike Blackrock or Monkstown, you can't really drive through Dalkey (it's a geographical cul-de-sac) so it's definitely got a rural 'village' feel to it. Eight miles out of the city on the southern end of Dublin bay, the picture-postcard main street hasn't changed in 100 years. Beyond the main street, huge Victorian houses, grand redbrick terraces and Gothic piles are dotted along the coast.
History Dalkey or Deilginis (Thorn Island) is named after its neighboring island. Once the main port of Dublin, Dalkey later thrived as a 19th century seaside suburb after the construction of the funicular railway (the first of its kind in the world). From 1879 to the 1950s, the No 7 tram served Dalkey - you can still see the tracks - but nowadays main street gridlock is caused by school-run mums in their humungous Lexus SUVs and oversized Merc jeeps.
Who lives there? Grand old bohemian Dalkey families are slowly being squeezed out by the annoyingly brash nouveau riche - but Dalkey still retains its charm. Among the residents are Maeve Binchy, Hugh Leonard, Neil Jordan, Bono, Enya and Pat Kenny. There are also lots of B-list celebrity wannabes, rich barristers, flash media-types, poor-as-church-mice Protestants and aging hippies.
Amenities With all that money floating around you'd expect a veritable Rodeo Drive of posh designer clothes shops and jewellers, but in fact there are few. Best deli is Thyme Out and the wonderful On the Grapevine has regular wine tastings, good coffee and organic chocolate. For a spot of culture, there are two private art galleries, a well-stocked public library and the excellent Exchange Bookshop, which does a roaring trade in second-hand books. There are good pubs: The Queens for the young, braying rugger types; The Club has an odd mix of very old and (very) young locals; and the Sorrento Lounge (aka Finnegan's), still the best pub for soaking up the unique, laid-back Dalkey atmosphere. On summer days the pavement outside is stuffed with le tout monde sinking pints after sunny Vico swims. Finnegans is also the best place to spot drinking celebs, but this has resulted in swarms of Italians descending upon the pub vainly searching for Bono. The relatively new IN bar and restaurant has ubiquitous brown leather pouffes, but is a bit, well, too trendy for your average Dalkeyite. Restaurants are plentiful and the best include Jaipur (Indian), PD's Woodhouse (expensive BBQ), Nosh (European) and Kish (top-notch French). Outside of the village are breathtaking walks: Northwards, walk along the coast via Bullock Harbour and Castle to Dun Laoghaire. Southwards, enjoy the incredible vistas along Coliemore and Vico roads with views of Dalkey Island, Dublin Bay, Killiney Bay and Bray Head. Sorrento Park (facing Sorrento Terrace) has the best views in Dublin. Or walk up to the Quarry, past the mad hang-gliders and abseilers, up to Queen Victoria's obelisk atop Killiney Hill. During the summer, one can take a motor boat out to the Island to view St Begnet's Church and the Martello Tower, but the hungry native goats and rabbits can make picnicking rather problematic. Swimming (bathing suits optional) off the rocks at Vico can also be a bit hairy if the sea is rough (or if you are easily shocked by naked old men) but there is a proper beach at adjacent White Rock for the squeamish. On a fine summer's day when huge yachts moor on the glittering water, you could be fooled into thinking you were on the Amalfi Coast. Bring binoculars to spot sunbathing celebrities, schools of diving porpoises and seals.
Quality of life Beautiful sea views, leafy streets and great pubs. The local community council - anal/zealous - monitors all planning applications, parking and litter issues, so streets are clean and house extensions are small and 'tasteful'. Local dogs blatantly ignore old militants by depositing large piles of dog turd along every pavement - and nature wins again.
Property On Coliemore, Sorrento and Vico Roads a basic detached house will set you back €1million and a decent pile could cost anything up to €5million. Sorrento Terrace is probably the most sought after address in Ireland and Vico Road comes a close second. However, in the village itself small artisan dwellings, once owned by quarry workers, can be picked up for about €300,000 - €500,000.
The rest of Dublin's 10 best neighbourhoods is available now in this month's issue of The Dubliner

Published in the March 2003 edition of The Dubliner magazine

Comments

[Mary]

I'm with O'Toole -- Stoneybatter's the best!

[Jimmie Lynch]

Stoneybatter is real Dublin at its best!

[Simon Armstrong]

Do we get to see the rest @ some point?