Trevor White on the demise of a Dublin Institution
Cooke's Café has occupied a prime pitch on the corner of
South William Street and Castle Market for the last 16 years. It was often cited as an emblem of Ireland's so-called Culinary Renaissance. And it will shut down at the end of the month.
This morning Johnny Cooke told me that he is closing the once-feted restaurant. It's a bittersweet end to the talented chef's tenure. He will continue to offer private catering to high-end clients like U2 and Alison O'Reilly, and is talking about launching "some combination of retail and restaurant" early next year. For the moment, however, Cooke becomes the highest-profile casualty of the downturn in the restaurant industry.
The restaurant will continue trading until the end of the month. At that point the new lease-holder, Graham Beere, will turn it into a branch of YO! Sushi or Gourmet Burger Kitchen. Poignant – or ironic?
Either way, it's a sad end to a notable chapter in Irish culinary history.
When the Dubliner returned to Dublin from California in the early 1990s he quickly established a reputation as one of the city's most talented chefs, and the fact that he was a bit of a party boy lent further appeal. (His customers were the sort of people who now spend their afternoons in the Unicorn or Bentley's.) Writing in 2004, Paolo Tullio reminisced:
I remember my first meal in Cooke's Café,
when Johnny Cooke had just started out on his own. I remember the meal because it was revolutionary, because it was iconoclastic, because it brought a whole new cuisine to Dublin. It's hard to imagine today, when new cuisines are thrust upon us by the week, how mould-breaking he was
back then. Those restaurant staples that we take for granted: pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, goat's cheese and good breads were virtually unknown in Dublin restaurants. Cooke's Café was instrumental in bringing them to the Irish table.
Like many chefs, Cooke was never over-burdened by business acumen, and this is not the first time he has closed the restaurant. It is, however, the first time that he has managed to sell the lease. Hence the air of finality.
I have clashed with Johnny Cooke in the past (he is no fan of bolshy hacks). Today, however, is not a day to dance to graves. Cooke is a seriously talented chef, and his next move will be watched with considerable interest. Good luck to him.
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